vogue

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This is the year in all the various Vogue covers, overlaid.
Simple concept, fascinating results. Click here to view each of the editions as overlaid images.

(via @coverclub, Fashioncopious.com)

UPDATE: A similar visual display with Elle covers was on view at Art Basel Miami this year. Photo shot by @BeccaClaraLove.

UPDATE 2: Stylite tries it with a few other titles, with varying degrees of success.

banania

You’ve probably read about it everywhere else, but there’s more pictures of the blacked-up model from this month’s French Vogue here and on the photographer Steven Klein’s own website here.

Does the fact that it’s a French magazine make it less offensive? Not really – can anyone at French Vogue really claim surprise that the internet would be interested in this? Let alone the magazine’s appearance on newsstands around the world. Or the fact that the same issue doesn’t have a single black model in its pages. Nah, it’s just another giggle to go along with the devil worship spread and the baby-throwing one.

The photographer is American, and so surely aware of the history of blackface’s iconography. The model, Lara Stone, is Dutch, where controversy over blackface is hardly unknown. Blackface may not have been as culturally prevalent in France, but it did make it to Paris in the 1920s (see particularly p86-7), showcased in touring American variety shows that were talked about in the press at the time. And today in France, crass, insensitive depictions of black people still seem to be pretty commonplace.

Apparently editor-in-chief Carine Roitfield styled this one herself. Good thing she never wanted the American Vogue job anyway.

Enough already. We’ve been here before, when Kate Moss blacked up for The Independent‘s “African women” issue, guest-edited by Giorgio Armani, which was wrongheaded in all kinds of other ways.

If you’re still interested, I’ve posted a few more thoughts about media responsibility over here. And on we go.

Shortcovers to bring individual article purchase to the iPhone
Buried in this description of on-screen bookselling. I said that the whole ‘by article’ thing wouldn’t go away, though the iPhone screen isn’t the killer device that will make it a comfortable read

Vogue does torture-porn fashion shoot
Zzzzzzzzz

Polaroid’s old factory bought by Dutch fanboys
New film to be developed; seeks help from photographers, and will probably get it

Big names in British men’s magazines make their own arch fanzine
It’s fun. Some bits of it make me laugh, though others make me feel like I’m missing the in-joke. Which I almost certainly am

Top Gear presenter was fired for doing something funny with dropcaps
I completely missed this before. Full Flickr scans here

Italian doctorate on magazines includes interviews in English
Interviews with mag makers at the end. There’s plenty of pretty to illustrate the Italian text too

Variety likes The September Issue
Though montages grate a little, it seems, as does relentless self-publicity by all concerned

super/collider to screen high-definition moon footage
One of my favourite digital magazines, small as it is, presents its first live event in London

Crisis roundup

Google quits the print ads game
Was never really their forte, even in happier times

Home design magazines feeling the pinch
No surprises in this fairly typical doom-and-gloom story

Why magazines themselves aren’t doomed
Smart answer. Perhaps, perhaps the model is broken, but not the medium

On Thursday evening, The September Issue (whose tagline is the not-inaccurate “Fashion is a religion. This is its Bible.“) premiered in Salt Lake City as part of the Sundance Film Festival. It’s a documentary telling the story of the creation of the September 2007 issue of Vogue – a mammoth 840 page edition (of which 727 were ads).

I’ve only found one review so far, and it seems the film is about the battle between Anna Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington, a battle for humanity’s soul and the right to accessorise properly. All of which suggests bitchy, stress-filled office fun, especially for those either nosy or nostalgic for the days when magazines carried advertising – though it’ll probably be more of a busman’s holiday for many of us. Arthouse distribution seems almost guaranteed, especially if the vultures end up making Wintour angry enough to walk out.

Two minutes of short clips and the rather hairy director talking here:

Unselfish Heller reveals vintage magazine source
Contains all the big hitters: Life, Flair, Harpers, New Yorker, Fortune… just be prepared to bid against Steven

Men’s Vogue to be reverse-bound with Vogue
A smart short-term solution to keep jobs; long-term future still suspect, though

What’s wrong with Vogue?
Vogue has become stale and predictable” according to the NYT blog; plenty of quotes to back it up, too. Miesel aside, it certainly pales in daring compared to Vogue Italia and Vogue France. But could an American audience handle such bravado?

Roundup of how Google Magazines is doing
“We talked about digitizing it for years, but could never justify the expense” – a phrase which applies to far too many magazines. Still, not everyone can formulate a successful digital strategy, and not everyone is interested in trying, which is where the big G comes in

Cute new PDF fanzine about Tokyo/China
A bit short on content and focus, but very nice looking and a decent start from two Italians living in Tokyo. Worth the download, if not worth keeping; I’d love to see a Japanese expat PDF zine made in the west, as a contrast (via Jean Snow)

Mag roundup of 2008
Decent roundup of mags they’ll miss and covers they loved (which I almost universally didn’t. I do agree with many other people’s favourite though)

Ink-saving typeface
Not yet there, but a decent-enough talking point / piece of PR

Esquire‘s 7 greatest stories, now available online
They’re all well worth reading / lamenting the state of the world today, etc

Swedish magazine editors have plastic surgery for a story

One had his nose removed, then put back with the word “stet” stitched underneath

Personalise your inflight magazine
Right now, a gimmick – but not too far off a POD magazine future

Model artificially aged for Vogue shoot
All done through lighting, angles, make-up, posture and costume. Photoshop, know your limits

Teen Vogue creates a buy-nothing popup store
Clever use of branding, advertisers. Everyone wins

Yet another new newspaper supplement
I launches in a marketplace that already has T, FW, WSJ, ST. The future of print is acronyms inside other print

People think digital magazines are green
Though as Tony points out, are they really? Reminds me of another survey I saw a year or so ago, about how uncoated paper is seen to be less harmful to the environment than glossy paper. The reality is that it often isn’t

American Apparel has a rather good online newsstand
Some of the best independent press celebrated alongside pants (thanks Mike)


The carbon cost of the Esquire e-Ink cover
The backlash begins. 150 carbon tons, apparently

The strange, sad story of door-to-door magazine sales
A story of lies, drugs, death and the nationwide pressure to increase magazine circulations. Top reporting from the Houston Press

Design is pretty, but won’t someone think of the content?
Editorial grandaddy Harold Evans rails against design-led emptyness. He might not enjoy this October’s Belvedere Festival then

All-black Italian Vogue “most wanted issue ever”
10,000-copy reprint for the US market. I have a copy, and don’t really get what the fuss is about. A bonus “fashion shows” supplement provides plenty of skinny white girls for those who like them (as do all the ads)

Time tries the Radiohead subscription model
Unlike Radiohead, people might actually put an amount more than the 44c an issue it otherwise costs (including the $5 Amazon coupon)

Police raids French auto magazine looking for source of leak
Renault gets the boys in

Magazine makes real crop circle
Photoshop reported to be “worried”